DIY Pencil Skirt Using an Existing Skirt

After picking up a really nice pleated black skirt from Cue during the sales, I still wanted another pencil skirt. Pencil skirts are so easy to make, that sometimes it seems a bit ridiculous to pay four times the cost of making one myself, to get something of very average quality that isn't necessarily a perfect fit. So I decided the obvious thing to do would be to make one myself. If you already own a pencil skirt and your are happy with the fit, you can very easily make a pencil skirt without having to buy a pattern. I made the skirt below by simply tracing out the panels of an existing pencil skirt. I have included some simple instructions so that you can do the same to achieve a versatile and great looking skirt, perfect for work and other occasions. I bought my fabric from The Fabric Store on Brunswick Street in Fitzroy, Melbourne. If you live in Melbourne (or travel here) this shop is amazing and by far the best fabric shop I know of. I highly recommend dropping in if you are looking for something of good quality and an attractive, fashionable fabric. The fabric I bought was a cotton blend with a reasonable amount of stretch, and this was $18 p/m so all up I spent just over $20 on a great pencil skirt.

What to Buy:

Measure your hips and the length from your hips to your knees. You will then need to add 1.5cm to each seam, plus some extra just in case. I would recommend having a 3cm hem, so remember to add this into your calculation for the length. As a guide, I bought 1m of a stretch cotton fabric.
25cm zipper (I used a standard dress zip, however you can also use an invisible zip)
1 roll of matching thread

Instructions:

Turn the existing pencil skirt inside out and pin one seam at a time to your fabric (ensure the direction on stretch on the fabric lines up with the width of the panels). Trace around each panel with either fabric chalk, pencil or fading pen.
Measure 1.5cm out from the current pattern you have traced, and trace out the panel to include seam allowance.
Cut out each piece from the seam allowance measurement.
Once you have cut out each piece, zigzag the edges (or overlock if you have an overlocker).
If you are using a band along the top, you will need to pin and sew this to each panel before sewing the vertical seams of the skirt. I also put small belt loops on the top band of my skirt, which need to be pinned and sewed with the top band.
Pin the centre of one back seam to one size of the zip and sew along the zip, as close to the zipper as possible. Repeat this with the other back panel of the skirt.
Pin the sides of the back panels and front together one at a time, and sew these edges.
Finish the back seam beneath the zipper. I used a split on my skirt which is recommended if you aren't using a full stretch fabric (use a split for cottons, linens, wool, garbadine etc.)
The last sewing step is the hem along the bottom of the skirt. At this stage it is a good idea to try the skirt on and make sure it fits everywhere. You may find that you want to take the sides in slightly, which should be done before the hem. Once you are happy with the fit around the side seams, ensure you are happy with the length and evenness of the bottom hem. Zigzag the bottom hem, and then fold it up about 2-3cm (a larger hem usually sits nicer than a narrow hem). Pin and sew close to edge that has been folded up (not the fold itself).
Now you are done! Give the skirt and iron, press the hem and press out the seams on the inside of the skirt.